The quality of French roads for bicyclists

While there are always exceptions, I am continually astonished at how finely maintained even the smallest departmental roads are in France. Even in the period of time I left last fall at the end of our season, and returning this spring, there are several hundred miles of new pavement in our region, newly built rondpoints (ubiquitous roundabouts, that really help traffic flow, and not nearly as daunting as back in the States), widened bridges and bike lanes on major trafficked roads we use to traverse to our intended riding areas.

Every week we explore new rides. The D982 from St. Victor la Coste to Uzès is a case in point – twenty miles of short col climbs, long ridge rides and stunning passages through miles of plane trees such as in this picture. Riding bliss…

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Sunday’s ride up Mont Ventoux

Summer seems finally here with Rhône valley in the upper eighties, but climbing Mt Ventoux the air progressively cools – here are the final switchbacks to the summit…

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Video clip of the ride from Sault back down into the Toulourenc valley

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A day of mist and rain. So rest, bike maintenance and pâté en croute

Last week was classic Provençal weather with a day of rain, but then sunny, warm clear days. We have been exploring the pre-Alps range of mountains called the Barronies – Beautiful, quiet roads and a café just when you need it.

A day off from riding to read, work on bikes and debate the merits of various pâté en croute. This one wins the day – duck, wood pigeon and foie gras – washed down with a 2010 Lirac from Mont Redon of Chateauneuf du Pape.

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Cycling up the Gorge de la Nesque – Provence, France


Here is a short clip from our 86 mile ride that circumnavigates the Mont Ventoux massif. It includes the ride up the stunning Gorge de la Nesque; lunch in the village of Sault overlooking miles of lavender fields and a thrill ride descent back to the Rhône valley through the Vallée de Le Toulourenc. With Lisa Drake, Scott Woodard, Erik Hansen & Ric Doucette

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Our ride to the summit of Mont Ventoux

The weather in Provence these past three weeks has been unusually cool with many weather fronts passing through. This morning was clear and calm, so we headed for the 60-mile loop that includes the col de Mont Ventoux. We left Séguret for the newly rebuilt and widened road to Entrechaux and the direct route to Malaucène.

The “classic” way up Mont Ventoux, or as Le Tour de France takes it, is from Bedoin. I prefer going up from Malaucène. It is at times steeper, but the road is wider, better surfaced, visually much more interesting and has a few flat sections that give you a respite from the climb. While the car barriers are still down, the road is dry and clear despite intermittent storms that pass through and snow banks along the roadside. You generate plenty of heat climbing and don’t think much about the cold alpine air. It feels great to descend into the warm Rhône valley air below as we ride back home.

Click on the map for details of the ride.

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Sunday ride through the Luberon, Provence

Sunday dawned clear and cool. After a quick breakfast we left Séguret headed for the Luberon, our neighboring region to the south. Perhaps made somewhat recently famous by Peter Mayle’s book, A Year in Provence, it is beyond beautiful with picturesque towns such as Gordes, Murs, and Venasque amongst many others. It is a quick, gradually descending traverse from Séguret to Mazan and Venasque on well surfaced departmental roads that skirt Carpentras and traffic to the West. Weekend cyclists are everywhere and many “Bonjours” and “Allez, allez” are passed amongst us.

Twenty miles in, we cross into the Parc naturel régional du Luberon and climb into the valley where the Abbaye de Sénanque is nestled amongst dormant lavender fields. After a quick loop through the driveway of the abbaye we continue our ride to Gordes, and gain the road that will take us to Murs. Spring has begun and the fields are verdant green and trees are just budding. We circle back through the col de Murs and mix it up with a Sunday amateur car rally passing through. We stop for a lunch of moules frites, a french staple, and soak up the Spring sun and Sunday market scene. Back on the bike for the twenty mile ride back home and Sunday papers (online!)

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The pleasures of cooking in France after a long ride

One of the pleasures of running CycleVentoux here in the south of France is the incredible array of great ingredients to cook with in the markets. Whether it is Tuesday market in our neighboring Vaison la Romaine or our three great supermarkets: Super U, InterMarché or, dare I say Lidl, the cost-conscious supermarket that was voted “best quality” last year by an influential French foodie publication. My posh neighbors smile at me brandishing my Lidl shopping bag— “wouldn’t be seen in there, but you can get away with it being an American.” Ahhh, the social class system still fully in effect. A favorite dinner of cyclist/guests after a day on the road is simple—roast duck breast over white beans with onion, sage, and rosemary accompanied with fresh escarole braised in olive oil, white wine, garlic, and herbes de provence—the bottle of local côtes du rhônes goes without saying!

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Spring in the Vaucluse! So fine…

I arrived in Séguret after skiing in Chamonix for a week with CycleVentoux riders Melody Badgett and Jen Bennett from last summer. The drive south through the pre-Alps was beautiful—wild weather through Grenoble and the Chartreuse mountain range. Crossed into the Rhône valley to a stunning sunset. Spent the evening making beds and cooking a classic Provençal daube (beef stew) for arriving clients, a group Imageof six guys from NYC.

They have been riding in their gym spinning classes in anticipation of their trip here. We rode the Gorge de la Nesque route from the house that circumnavigates the Mont Ventoux massif. We all agreed it was so fine to be back on the bike after a long northeast winter.

All home now to a glass of Cote du Rhône, dinner, and comfortable beds in anticipation of a long day riding to the Med—perhaps a swim in the ocean before the van ride home. Bouillabaisse sounds like a good dinner plan after that!

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Cycling The Alps

Early October  With the first snows begining to fall in the Alps we made a last tour of the classic cols for this season. We were greeted by a dinner of raclette and comfortable beds at the Chalet d’Augustine on the Col de la Madeleine road just above the town of La Chambre in the Arc river valley. Our goal was to climb the Glandon and Croix de Fer the next day and make a circuit back to La Chambre – 43 miles. We awoke to a great breakfast of local cheese & charcuterie, yogurt and plenty of good coffee. We suited up and drove down to La Chambre to park and launch from there. We crossed out of town, over the Arc, the autoroute and rail lines heading to the Fréjus tunnel and Italy. The climb begins shortly once out of town and wends up on great road surface, small farms and pastureland. At about mile ten it opens up to high pasture land and the final switchbacks to the Col du Glandon. We were met by snowflakes in the air and a desire to get over the Croix de Fer (two miles on) and down to the valley so we could generate some warmth by pedalling. We rounded a bend, and a charming sheperdess (bergère en français) in her ski parka was bouncing up and down to stay warm, while her collie was making sure the sheep stayed in line. She laughed at the site of us, and said there was a cafe a few miles down that was open. We made a beeline for it to warm up over a double espresso. We descended in rain and were very pleased to get back to the Augustine for a cold beer and raclette warmed via a hardwood charcoal brazier device – very cool, and delicious!

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